The Ultimate Guide to Cleansing for Darker Skin

Written by: Precious Umeasalugo

Skincare comes with many firsts: your first facial, your first high-end moisturiser, and your first-time trying retinol. My most memorable skincare first was my first cleanser — a rectangular bottle of avocado-scented product containing tiny beads for "mild" exfoliation. When that did nothing but give me microtears, I switched to a more natural alternative, black soap. However, that also left me with more burning, tingling and a few red patches. Eventually, I moved to a far gentler cleanser. But while this one did not give our skin any micro tears or patches, it didn't do much for my other skin concerns. 

For many people with melanin-rich skin, finding a cleanser –and learning how to use one properly– can be a journey littered with several trials and many errors. Such experimentation is not helpful to our skin which is prone to inflammation-related concerns.

Thankfully, you no longer need to wander around the cleanser aisle of your beauty supply store, as we have just the answers. To bring you the best advice we spoke to board-certified dermatologist and 4.5.6 Skin co-founder Dr. Carlos Charles on how melanin-rich skin should be cleansed— and we have some much-needed recommendations for you to take the day off with.

Your skin comprises several elements, from your sebaceous glands to the layers of your epidermis. But a crucial part of your skin is the skin barrier, which is closely related to some of the skin concerns you've experienced.

"The skin barrier is made up of various components that all work together to protect us from the outside elements such as pollution, harmful microorganisms and ultraviolet light while also allowing us to coexist in a state of balance with the environment.", Dr. Charles explains.

However, when this protective barrier is damaged, it triggers an inflammatory cascade that involves robust melanin-producing cells called melanocytes. These melanocytes will produce excess melanin in response to elements like acne, harsh sunlight, or that abrasive cleanser on your bathroom shelf.

"This phenomenon is known as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation –which is often difficult to correct", continues Dr. Charles. 

In addition to the fragile nature of your barrier and the melanocytes underneath, Dr. Charles also mentions the lack of hydrating ceramides in darker skin. "These [ceramides] are key to helping the skin maintain its moisture content, and because of this relative decrease, we can see increased dryness that we euphemistically refer to as 'ashy skin’" he says.

So, when you have skin with a barrier that's so lovingly protective but ever ready to develop a bad case of acne, hyperpigmentation, and ashiness, how do you cleanse? The simple answer is to be gentle.

"Any form of trauma or abrasive cleansing techniques can lead to inflammation on the skin, resulting in unwanted hyperpigmentation. Therefore, cleansing darker skin should be performed as gently and as effectively as possible to minimise the chance of any potential unwanted blemishes and scarring", Dr. Charles explains.

Unlike what it might sound like on first listen, double cleansing isn't just washing your face twice. It requires washing twice with two kinds of cleansers: an oil-based cleanser like a cleansing balm and a traditional gentle cleanser afterwards. Where the cleansing balm emulsifies to melt away makeup and sebum, the traditional cleanser that follows removes the rest of the dirt left.

Dr. Charles recommends double cleansing particularly for people with heavy makeup or oily skin, but with a few caveats. "In this method, it is important to use a gentle cleanser for the second pass, and it's best to avoid any active ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide or exfoliating acids", he states. 

He also adds that while double cleansing works well for people with melanin-rich oily skin, those with inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or rosacea should avoid the double cleansing method as "it can strip the skin and cause excessive dryness, once again leading to inflammation and hyperpigmentation".

If you're looking for an on-the-go cleansing method, it doesn't get handier than micellar water. Micellar water is another excellent cleansing method for melanin-rich skin, thanks to its gentle action on the skin barrier.

"The name ‘micelle’, which is a collection of molecules, refers to its composition because there's such a mild concentration of soap or detergent molecules in the water, so it feels less like soap and more like water", Dr. Charles explains. Its mild cleansing action makes this a popular choice amongst those with sensitive skin. "Micellar water is gentle enough that most individuals can use it and is typically gentle and effective for cleaning dark skin tones."

Like cleansing, exfoliation is a step that is most often misunderstood. For people with darker skin, exfoliating the wrong way can have even worse consequences.

“Often, people will reach for physical exfoliation methods to strip away whatever they want to treat. This can leave the skin raw and inflamed, resulting in more hyperpigmentation.”, Dr. Charles says. This is why physical exfoliation, which involves using abrasive materials like sugar or walnut scrubs, is not the safest choice for people with melanin-rich skin.

Instead, Dr. Charles recommends chemical exfoliation, where gentler products formulated with skin-lifting chemicals remove dead skin cells and reveal a softer layer of skin. “I tend to lean towards gentle chemical exfoliators for melanin-rich skin. Physical exfoliators can be used judiciously as they tend to create skin trauma that can lead to inflammation and hyperpigmentation”, he adds.

As for the frequency of exfoliation, it's essential to limit this step to a certain number of times per week so you do not make the skin feel raw. “Exfoliating once or twice per week can typically suffice for achieving the goal of gently removing unwanted older skin cells and surface debris,” he stated. 

There has been a lot of debate on whether or not toners are necessary in routines. Our advice? If it's great on your skin, keep it.

"When it comes to toning for darker skin, the same idea applies; gentle is always better", Dr. Charles continues. But choosing the right toner can also be a journey of experimentation. To find the best toner, look for one that is soothing and balances your pH.

"Using a product that is too basic or acidic can lead to irritated, flaky and angry skin. It is essential to use products specifically designed to be pH-balanced, as we have done at 4.5.6 Skin. This is of even greater importance with darker skin types that have been found to have a slightly more acidic pH level and may require a more precise range of products to minimise unwanted inflammation", Dr. Charles explains.

Now that you know to skip the tingly-itchy cleansers and beady scrub-cleanser hybrids, knowing what gentler alternatives are great for you and your skin is vital. Whether you like a deep cleanse with your favourite cleansing balm or a quick wash with micellar water, cleansing is a time to refresh your skin and prep for the other parts of your routine, exfoliating and toning included. Luckily, there are options for every budget, skin type, and preference.

The journey to finding the right cleanser for melanin-rich skin doesn't have to include irritation and hyperpigmentation. As Dr. Carlos expertly advises, listen to your skin, prioritize gentle formulations, and choose cleansing options that effectively remove impurities without causing trauma, helping with a healthier and more radiant complexion.